Timothy B. Dereg says:

Not for use with motion-activated lighting! Replacing an old 300-watt, motion-activated halogen floodlight for this 50-watt LED floodlight didn’t take any longer than swapping out any other outdoor light, but it certainly weighs more than I expected. The installation bracket for this LED floodlight has some pretty damn big holes for mounting, so you’ll need one good-sized lag bolt with a washer at least the size of a quarter plus two more smaller bolts and some pre-drilled holes. For the actual wiring, I was helped a LOT by other people who evaluated similar LED floodlights and posted the equivalence in wire color coding between the European standards used in its manufacture and the American standards used for wiring my house for identifying the ground, neutral, and hot wires.Now to the nitty-gritty….The light this 50-watt LED floodlight puts out is called “Cool White” by the marketing writer, but not by me; it is definitely a blue color, almost near-UV, so I half-expect to see minerals fluorescing in my gravel driveway. And I have no idea why it’s called a “Spotlight Flood Light,” since the reflector guarantees it functions only as a floodlight. There’s no way to turn it into a spotlight, so go figure…The unit comes with a 3-foot length of power cord coming out of the transformer box, like someone chopped up a length of outdoor extension cord and simply grabbed a piece to connect to the transformer. The other end doesn’t even have the wires bared in preparation for connection. No electrical supplies are provided – not even a few cheap, twist-on wire connectors – so you need to provide ALL electrical supplies.The big disappointment is that this LED floodlight doesn’t work well if it’s wired in series with a motion-activated sensor. It has something to do with the need of motion-detecting circuitry to have a complete circuit for electricity to flow through. I don’t understand the details – all I know is that it turns ON just fine on detecting motion but it will NEVER turn itself off. So you need to have it on a switch that you can turn off manually to reset the LED floodlight. Otherwise you’re better off sticking with bulbs that use halogen or tungsten filaments.Also, its brightness doesn’t live up to its marketing. The light is quite bright to look at directly. But perhaps because the reflector spreads the light out over a wide area, everything is dimmer than I expected. The marketing claims that the 50-watt LED is equivalent to a 500-watt floodlight, which is complete hogwash. There’s a 70-watt LED floodlight offered by the same vendor that claims to be the equivalent of a 200-watt halogen floodlight, so how can a 50-watt LED be over twice as bright? Compare the amount of lumens for a more realistic comparison. The 70-watt LED puts out in excess of 6000 lumens (and says it’s the equivalent of a 200-watt halogen floodlight), while this 50-watt LED puts out about 4500 lumens (about the same as a 150-watt halogen floodlight – a far cry from 500 watts of illumination).